After what may have been my first hot shower in two months, I set myself to the business at hand: to find a cheaper hotel before I had to pay $16 again for the same room. Armed with the Tourist Bureau list of hotels and their ratings, but without much of a map, I got to know the hotel quarter pretty well, which is to say which hotels are full and which have gone out of business since the list was made. Then I devoted an hour or more to finding a certain hotel in another quarter, near the port. Finally found it and got a room for $12.50, with a possibility of switching to a $9 room tomorrow. This room is also pretty nice, on the third floor, with a terrace overlooking the street in front and a sort of porch with a table and chair outside the room. Inside, two single beds inadequately combined to make one; a large armoire; a desk and chair; two night stands; and a large bathroom.
After settling and resting again, I set out for a walk along the coast. Dakar is a peninsula, with a port—the most important in West Africa—on the east side and a couple of deserted beaches and residences on the west. The view is terrific, because the city's on a plateau and you watch the sea from up above. There are several little islands nearby and a crowd of people on the beach were dragging in a fishnet. It occurred to me that if I had to live I one of the African cities I've seen, it would be
On past the Moslem cemetery, I finally came to the artisans' village, a co-op for creating and selling wood, ivory and metal sculptures; gold, silver and other jewelry; pottery; clothes and fabrics' baskets; leather goods; and a book bindery. The vendors, especially of sculptures, were as aggressive as ever, pushing and tugging at me, insisting that I "just come and look," "just hold it," "just buy it and three more like it but bigger." Actually, I saw loads of stuff I liked but confined myself to three purchases.
Back at the hotel, I was lucky enough to find a box suitable for all my gifts. Supped, read, and hit the deck early again—I'm really glad I decided to get out of Bamako fast and spend my week here.
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