September 25, 1980

MEKNES, MOROCCO
Unfortunately, no one wanted hitchers to Volubilis, so after more than an hour of watching car after car go by (plus lots of poor people with donkeys), I came back into town. Instead, I trekked out to the railroad station for info on the train to Algeria, went to the local museum (crafts again), and spent some time in the medina.

Previously, if I felt a little homesick, the place I wanted to go to was a big department store. Even in the major cities here, they just don’t exist and I was thinking how different shopping is here, but it occurred to me today, in the medina, that the market area is very much like one of America’s greatest institutions: The Mall.

In the medina, or outdoor mall, of Meknes, one can find: pots & pans; cosmetics; underwear; a thousand fruit & vegetable salesmen at shops or carts; bookbags, luggage and all kinds of leather goods; notebooks; dishes; ropes; birds; Adidas sneakers & t-shirts; Moroccan jellabas & caps; many shoe stores; candy shops; carpenters selling shelves, desks, etc.; chickens (complete); canned vegetables; detergents (Tide is very big); several branches of banks; rugmakers; ice cream stands; butchers; a police station; records & cassettes; dentists and doctors; toys & sporting goods; books; a hundred refreshment stands; Woolworths-type knick-knacks; movie theaters; little eateries; American jeans; and my favorite, the old men in wide-brimmed hats who carry brass water tanks on their backs and ring brass bells to announce that you can drink water from their brass cups.

Earlier in the week, I had morocco’s #1 dish, cous-cous, and tonight, probably my last night in the country, I had its #2 dish, chicken tajine. With a half-loaf of bread, tomato salad, a dish of grapes and the ever-present mint tea, it was a feast. At 2:50 am, I’ll board a train that will bring me to the Algerian border by dawn.

PHOTO CREDIT 1
PHOTO CREDIT 2

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