Got to the Algerian consulate the minute it opened and left one minute later with passport and visa, so I’m through with Rabat. Someone told me that the snipers at the border have quit it for a while, so that should make it easier. Today I learned the real advantage of an early start on the road, even when the distance you’re going isn’t great: avoiding the midday heat, and when I say midday, I mean from 10 to 5.
While I was walking, a bunch of guys called me over and, uncharacteristically, I went. They all introduced themselves and two of them volunteered to walk me down to a good place to hitch. We sat in the shade and talked international politics and sociology, while I passed the canteen. When away from home, one becomes a little more patriotic than usual. Afterwards, I got a lift on a truck for 30 km. Another hitcher gave the driver a few dirham, so I took my cue—this was probably the first of many non-gratis rides. For my third lift, I had to bargain down the fare before getting in. Bargaining, by the way, is the accepted way of almost any exchange, from an apple to a hotel room. Everyone must do it, especially we tourists, who might otherwise spend four or five times what we should. I suppose when I’ve done more of it I’ll become more strong-willed and I won’t be taken in so badly.
This last driver was a bit of a hell-raiser; I think he said he was Italian and he sure acted it as he drove around in circles trying to get two girls to come for a ride. At various times throughout the 85 km trip with him, we carried eight different hitchers. I was last and he brought me right to the Tourism Office in Meknes.
It didn’t take long for two hustlers to find me and the brains of the operation sent his assistant to help me find a hotel. It was definitely more than a friendly gesture, because they had their act down and were very aggressive, so I got rid of them temporarily, but was nervous that they knew where my room is. We had planned to meet tonight at the café next door and I spent the day trying to guess what their game was, but it turned out they were just hash dealers and when I turned down their offer, the friendship faded quickly.
Anyway, this room is my best yet, albeit the most expensive at almost $4.00. It’s got a big bed (only sags in the middle), is nicely painted (last one looked like a bomb had hit it), and even had a little sink. The toilet down the hall is like all the others I’ve seen here: requires some dexterity to squat over the hole, has no paper and there’s a bucket of water nearby for flushing.Tomorrow, a day-trip to the unearthed, ancient Roman city of Volubilis.
PHOTO CREDIT
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